All rules will be followed, or you WILL NOT be allowed to run in a heat. Car and driver qualify for each race.

NO changing car or driver.

Any American made sedan or station wagon can run.

NO 1970 or older Lincoln’s.

NO 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames.

NO 4×4’s, ambulances, limousines, etc.

03 and up Fords are acceptable.

Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 14-17 must have a notarized permission slip and some sort of ID. The person that signs in as the driver/passenger must be the driver/passenger for that event.

Driver must wear seat belt and full-face helmet, along with eye protection during their heat.

All drivers and crew members must attend the drivers’ meeting prior to the event starting.

Do not hit the driver’s door. We understand this can happen, but if it does you had better be on the brakes. If you pull the door to protect the car, be prepared to be hit in door!

If you have a fire and it gets, put out, you will be allowed to keep going. If you have a second fire you will be disqualified from heat.

No holding of another car. Make a hit and get moving again. You have 20 seconds to make a hit. You have 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are stuck to get going or you will be disqualified.

If a car is pushed on wall, it will be removed and allowed to restart, if the derby is stopped for a safety issue, for example a fuel line leaking if it can be repaired in a 5-minute period they will be allowed to continue.

No alcohol allowed in pits or cars during the event. This includes the crew!

Your car is subject to be inspected at any point of the show.

We will not entertain protests of any kind. If you have issues address them at the drivers’ meeting.

There is no” Reading into rules or beating of rules” Judges decisions are FINAL.

Your car MUST pass tech inspection to run. We will not allow voting of illegal cars into our show period!

Car Preparation
All cars must remain stock unless a change is specified in these rules.

All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed. 

All decking and rear seating must be removed in station wagons.

Tires no bigger than 16 inches allowed.

No split rims or studded tires allowed.

Foam filled tires or doubled tires are acceptable.

Valve stem protectors, full weld in centers, and bead locks are acceptable.  – Driver must wear a fire coat or non-flammable jacket during event.

Radiators must remain in factory location.

All cars must have working brakes.

Trailer hitches and braces must be removed.

Original gas tanks must be removed, and a boat tank or well-made fuel cell must be placed in back seat location free of leaks, properly secured, and covered.

You need a number in bright colors on both sides of car and a 15” x 15” roof sign for scoring.

Car Building
Cage Specifications:
4-point cage

Door bars 60” max

You may gusset with-in the 4-point area

6” materials max for cage components

The side bars must remain 6” off the floor sheet metal

You are allowed a gas tank protector. It must remain 6” off floor and be sheet metal as well. It may touch rear sheet metal at the packing tray area, but the sheet metal is not to be messed with. DO NOT beat this back to the frame.

Gas tank protector may only be 24” wide and must come off rear seat bar. Halo bars are permitted to rise up from the gas tank protector to above the top side of the tank only. They are not to extend back over deck lid or attach to anything else other than the gas tank protector itself.

You may have 4 down tubes total (2 per side). Front down tubes must remain behind front edge of front door seam. The others may be placed anywhere else in the 60” side bar area. They may also be welded directly to frame top side only. No kickers of any kind (front or rear) off of cage.

No part of cage may be attached to a body mount.

Roll loop must run from top side of cage over or under roof and may be bolted to the roof in 2 places with 1/2” bolts max.

Doors & Tailgates:
Doors may be welded solid with a 2” X 1/8” sheet metal strap.

Gas lid doors may be welded with NO added metal.

Driver’s door only may have a 2” X 6” X 1/4” strap welded across and may run 6” past either seam.

Hard top cars may run a 2” X 1/4” strap from middle door seam and lap 6 inches on roof and welded in place for safety.

Wagon tailgates may be welded solid with a 2” X 1/8” sheet metal strap.

Body Mounts:
Body bolts may be changed to 1/2” bolts through top side of frame only.

3” washers max.

Body mount pucks may be changed 1” tall 2” material ‘square tubing or pipe’.

2 mounts in trunk may be switched to 1” all-thread and run through frame and up through deck lid.  

Core support bolts may be switched to 1” all-thread as well and may have up to a 6” spacer.  Washers for 1” all-thread may be up to 6” X 6” X 1/4”.

Core support spacer may be up to 2” material ‘square tubing or pipe’ and may be welded to the top side only. NO OTHER WELDING ALLOWED FOR BODY BOLTS PERIOD!

 

Bumpers:
Bumper may be built however” Homemade” and may be “stuffed” but must remain in the measurement guideline.

Front bumper measurement guideline:

Ends of bumper may be trimmed, wrapped, and welded. No sharp edges or excessive points. Anything more than a factory Chrysler pointy WILL NOT BE ALLOWED to run.

Frame may be cut off to an inch in front of core support and bumper may be welded solid to the end of frame.

Front bumper bracket may now extend up to fourteen (14) inches back from the bumper. Brackets are to be made from 3/8″-inch material 4 inches wide.

Any factory bracket may be used but may NOT be” stretched” period. They may be shortened if needed.  If a factory bracket is not used, you may have a 12” X 4” X 1/4” plate. This must remain on one side of frame but may be bent to contour the frame. It may be welded solid. YOU CAN CHOOSE ONE OR THE OTHER, BUT NOT BOTH.

Hood:
You must have some sort of hole cut in hood if you are not running headers to allow access for fires.  Hood may be secured in up to (8) spots. Your 1” all-thread counts for (2) of these spots.  All other bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal only.

1/2” bolts and 6” washers If you choose, may use hood clips 2” X 2” X 1/4” angle iron, 4” long with one 1/2” bolt per clip.

No other bolting allowed on hood.

Trunks:
Deck lids may be tucked 50% but must remain in factory location.

You may have (2) 1” all-thread as stated earlier to secure it down.

You may weld deck lid down 5” on and 5” off with 2” X 1/8” sheet metal strap, but only on the area that is not tucked. The area that is tucked must be left alone. Nothing bolted or nothing welded down to trunk floor etc.…

If you choose not to weld your deck lid down, you may use (12) 3/8” bolts in the drip rail ONLY to secure it down.

You must have at least (1) 6” square or round inspection hole cut somewhere in the lid.

Suspension:
All suspension parts must remain stock except you may run aftermarket tie rods and aftermarket loaded control arms on the rear Everything must be direct bolt on.

Spring spacers are fine to get height if needed.

Leaf spring cars must have factory leaf springs.

Leaf packs must have 2” stagger and may have up to (9) leaves per pack.

You may have 4 clamps per side. Clamps can be homemade with 2” X 1/4” strap with a 3/8” bolt on each side of the spring.

Coil springs may be changed and may be doubled.

One place per side you may use one chain, #9 wire, or cable to from the rear end around frame to hold coil springs in or keep rear end from dropping out on leaf spring cars.

Front upper control arms may be secured down with either (1) 3/4” bolt or you may weld them down with (2) 2” X 3” X 1/4” plates. One on the front side and one on the back.

98-02 watts conversions- you may use a bolt in bracket for the upper control arms and the lowers you may use a factory bracket off an older ford OR a 3” X 3′ X 1/4” X 5” long piece of square tubing welded on inside of the frame rail.

If you run a watt’s conversion, you must cut off tabs that aren’t being used.

Driveline:
Any motor and any transmission combo mounted in the factory location is acceptable.

Engine may use a lower cradle with pulley protector.

NO Full cradles, distributor protectors, skid plates, etc.

If you use a pulley protector, you must cut out the sway bar.

Solid motor mounts are acceptable.

Transmissions must be factory cases only.

Ultra bell allowed; steel bell allowed

Trans brace ok must not touch body must have no bigger than ½” bolts mounting it to cross member must not brace car in any way, only to protect trans.

Transmission cross member may be relocated using a 3” X 3” X 1/4” angle iron 6” long per side. You can weld factory crossmember to that or bolt using (1) 1/2” bolt per side.

You may also use a 2” X 2” X 1/4” square tube or a 2” X 1/4” pipe but may only be welded between the frame rails with no added metal.

Crossmembers are to remain straight. NO bracing to come off and attach anywhere else to the frame.

Any rear end may be used (full floaters and 8 lug rear ends are acceptable).

Aftermarket axles, spools, gears, pinion brakes, etc. are acceptable.

Bracing is fine, but it’s for the rear end ONLY. Nothing may come off and attach to frame.

Axle’s savers are acceptable.

Sliding driveshafts are acceptable.

Steering:
As mentioned before, ALL components are to remain factory in position.

Steering shafts from the gear box back may be replaced.

Aftermarket columns are acceptable.

Aftermarket knuckles, slides etc. are acceptable.

You are allowed to use hydro steering set-ups.

Body:
You may trim wheel well areas for tire clearance.

Wheel wells may have (10) 3/8′ bolts above to connect inner and outer fenders together.  – Windshield bars 2” X 1/4” flat strap, #9 wire, or chain may be used in (2) spots in the windshield area.

You may have (2) spots with (4) loops of #9 wire per door. They may run from the roof down around frame and back up.

1” washers may be welded to roof for the wire to run through.

Body creasing is allowed.

Sheetmetal rust may be repaired using sheet metal ONLY.

You may only extend past rust 1” and weld but must leave rust in place.

Wagons may sedagon cars after they have run heat.

You may have (3) spots with (4) loops of #9 wire per rear window to attach roof to quarter and that’s it.

Frames:
No frame shaping allowed of any kind.

Rear arches may be hammered in.

Cold bending of frame is allowed but must remain left alone after that. None of the allowed plates may cover these areas.
No cutting of tabs on Z-box to tilt front.

All fresh cars may have (4) plates 4” X 6” X 1/4” and can be welded solid (FLAT PLACEMENT ONLY).  Plates on one side of frame member only.

No wrapping or shaping of plates.

Plates may not stand on edge or be used as gussets period.

Plates may not be stacked and can touch; Plates may not touch your bumper bracket and must remain 1” BETWEEN. Do not cut tabs to slide inside box either.

No rewelding any frame seams.

Pre-ran cars may add an additional (6) 4” X 6” X 1/4” plates with these same rules.

Miscellaneous:
Hand throttle is acceptable.

Switch panels are acceptable.

Electric fuel pumps are acceptable but must be wired so when you shut engine off the pump kicks off.

Tranny coolers are acceptable.

Gas and Brake combos are acceptable.

(2) battery set-ups are acceptable, but must be properly secured.

Cable shifters are acceptable.

You may cut fire wall out for clearance around motor and tranny.

Nothing inside the “cabin” may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car.

Tech number 417-217-2812 call or text